Myanmar Part 10 (b) - Inle Lake day 2

Awake not long after dawn, we enjoyed a slow and relaxing breakfast at the hotel. Today’s plan was to get out onto the lake and do the ‘standard’ tour that most people do. I was keen to see Indein village and the stupas there. But mostly, I wanted to see the lake, the photos of which were the first photos I ever saw of Myanmar.

We walked along the quiet streets of Nyaung Shwe to the canal (or river) where all the boats depart. Instead of pre booking, I knew it should be easy enough to simply find a boat ourselves and negotiate a rate ourselves. Sure enough, a block from the main boat docks, a boatman approached us asking if we wanted to hire him. After discussing what we did and did not want to see, we came to a rate of 17000 kyats for the day, including Indein (which seemed to be the market rate). We followed him back to the boat jetty with some chit chat about where we were from and where we had been. He was a quiet, almost shy guy, with skinny arms and a long face. Smiling, he told us how quiet it was and how busy it had been only a few weeks before.

Coming to the river/canal, many slender canoe-like boats were lined were up along the banks. This time of year, the river was low, as were the tourist numbers. Many sat empty, with piles of removable, wooden seats stacked up at the rear end. Climbing into the narrow craft was a bit tricky. Being so narrow, and us westerners so large, the boat rocked side to side and I could just see us tipping into the murky water. Luckily it didn’t happen and we were soon on our way down the busy waterway. The channel was like a major highway with many boats coming and going, loaded with sacks of produce, people being ferried about their day, as well as us tourists. I waved and smiled at all the passing faces, who eagerly smiled and waved back. You would never engage with commuters like this at home!

It didn’t take too long to be out on the open lake. From the channel entrance, the lake stretched out over the horizon. We could see the banks wide on either side, but the lake seemed to go on indefinitely. Dotted everywhere were fishermen. Within a few minutes, we had seen so many of them rowing their boats with their legs in the famous Inle Lake manner. With the blue-grey mirror surface, and all the reflections, I was in photographer’s heaven. The sun not yet overhead, the breeze from boat’s movement was cooling in the face of the heat of the day, and the whining of the boat’s lawn-mower engine buzzed in my ears. There was a picture postcard photo in every direction. Snapping away, I tried to capture this amazing place, but no amount of photos would really do the beauty of this stunning area justice.

Our first stop was a lotus silk weaving factory. The building looked like a large wooden house perched upon stilts rising above the lake’s surface. With great interest, we watched the worker carefully cut the stem of the lotus stem, then gently pull the ends apart to reveal the fine, threadlike silk strands, which were then gathered up and spun together to form the silk yarn. I was amazed at the labour-intensive process. From what I can remember, it took thousands of lotus stems to produce enough silk yarn to make a small ball. Not to mention many days work repeating this process over and over. Is there any wonder why even the smallest scarf cost over eighty US dollars?

As much as the workshop was interesting, it really was a tourist trap, retail outlet. There were hundreds of other silks and woven apparel for sale, with some regular silk with lotus silk blends. But the softness and uniqueness of the pure lotus silk won me over and I forked out the cash on a lovely turquoise coloured scarf (as a side note – it is the warmest scarf for its size I own, and is cool to wear in heat to protect against sun too).

Next stop was a cigar factory. I wasn’t keen but Mr. J smokes and likes a cigar. Again, it was a small wooden shop on stilts. Two lovely local women were hand rolling cigars very efficiently. They make a few hundred per day. Man, my hands got tired just watching them! So J bought some tobacco and cigars and we were on our way.

At the far end of the lake is Hpaung Daw U Pagoda. Surrounding the large, red-roofed temple was a constant stream of boats ferrying worshippers (and a couple of weary tourists) to and from this holy place. A large tiled terrace was off to one side, and many stalls lined every path to each entrance. I had read about the aggressive stall holders so I was ready to face the onslaught, but we were lucky. With it being low season, many traders had packed up and left and we were left alone with the exception of a few persistent kids selling postcards. 



Inside, the central alter had five, gold blobs, under which were some old Buddha statues. Over the years, they have been covered with so much gold leaf that they were no longer recognisable. I wish I knew what made them so venerated and I’m sure there is a myth about how they were made, or found or something that made them so sacred. I think they were given to the community by one of the great kings… there must have been an incredible legend and huge reverence associate with them.

Otherwise the interior of the pagoda wasn’t that remarkable. Maybe by now, I had seen so many ornate and intricately designed temples that this one did not stand out. Sure, there was a golden vaulted roof over the alter covered with gold panels depicting the gold blobs. Paintings of the Buddha’s lives hung on the outer walls, which were also draped in the traditional universal Buddhist flag.

A few men were rubbing more layers of gold leaf on the blobs. Women are not allowed into the inner alter and cannot approach the blobs. Instead, they sit close by praying while their husbands complete the ritual and their children run about the tiles floor of the large open room. Once again counting my good sense coming in low season, we found only a few dozen local families there, but had heard that there are times it is so crowded that you can’t see the inner alter at all.

Returning to the boat after walking around and checking out the surrounds, our boatman suggested lunch at a local eatery on the other side of the pagoda. I do not know its name, but it was not the more well know place called ‘Htun htun’. This one was on the diagonally opposite bank from the temple with a shaded deck and tables overlooking the river and pagoda. Taking a seat, the lovely staff brought us cool towels to refresh as we reviewed their modest menu. We each had a lovely plate of fried noodles with the usual as well as beers for the total sum of around 1200 kyats.

Full and refreshed, we then set off to Indein through the narrow waterways that connected it to the lake. In some places the water level was only inches deep and there were a few passes where our driver really had to push to get us through. All along the way were stilted villages and floating vegetable gardens. With the water so low, we couldn’t see much above the river bank. It took about half an hour to get there, where we were dropped off at a river side dock. From there, it was a short walk to the long covered walkway that marked the entry to the pagoda complex that is Shwe Inn Dian Pagoda complex.

 

From the signs near the main pagoda, and an inscription on a large stone tablet, I’ve put together the following information about Indein:  “The Shwe Inn Tain pagodas complex is located near the Inn Tain Kone village, on the western bank of Inlay Lake, Nyauny Shwe township, southern Shan State. According to the stone inscription from the reign of King Bodawphya, a small original stupa donated by the king Thiri Dhammasoka (273-232 BC) and King Anawrahta encased in the present pagoda. The two kings donated sacred ground for religious purposes with retainers to look at the pagoda during 11^th to 18^th centuries, in the reigns of Bagan, Inwa, Nyaungyan and Konboung kings, it had a complex of 1054 pagodas, with different types of traditional architecture and carvings. 

There are two pagodas which has inner grottoes, decorated with mural paintings. There is an encased pagoda donated by King Thiri Shamasoka (273 – 232 BC). There is one brick stairway on each side except on the western side. The eastern stairway is the longest one (2000’ x 12/5’) owing to the successive renovation. The groups of stupas exist in the entrance of the eastern stairway. According to the inventory of monuments in 1999, it listed altogether (1054) pagodas. The different types of traditional architectural designs, art and craft work created between 14^th and 18^th centuries can be seen in these pagodas. Moreover, the mural paintings can be studied in two temples. For the sustained preservation of these pagodas which have high cultural heritage value, necessary renovation, conservation and preservation works have been undertaken by the department of archaeology, National museum and national library of culture and regional authorities and pagoda trustee since 2006.”

...

Here's some photos of around the lake area (more info coming soon...)

To be continued.... - K

Myanmar Part 10 (a) - Inle Lake / Nyaung Shwe

Another early morning started the day with a 9:15am flight from Mandalay to Heho. Our driver had organised a car to take us to the airport for a great rate, and we made it with plenty of time to spare. Mandalay airport seems very modern on the outside, but inside, the stalls and waiting areas are still a bit 1950s. Like the previous flight, there were no pre-allocated seats. Once the plane unloaded the disembarking passengers, the embarking passengers simply chose any spare seat. Honestly, the speed and efficiency of the service was incredible – it was a very short 30-35 minute flight, and in that time you got a snack and drink and rubbish was cleared away.

Heho airport was little more than a large shed. Collecting our bags from the pile of unloaded baggage, we made our way away from the crowd and met the driver from our hotel in Nyaung Shwe. Originally, we were going to see Pindaya caves before heading to our hotel, but we simply wanted to relax and have an easy day. The drive to Nyaung Shwe was about 40 minutes, initially through charming, mostly flat, plains. Mid way, the road wound through some undulating hills and a train track cut through the mounds. On the outskirts of the town, we stopped at a make-ship road block to pay our visitor entry fees before being whisked to Princess Garden resort, our lodging for the next few days. This was probably our favourite place in our whole trip. Cute bungalows in a garden setting at the edge of town, it was family run with two lovely little dogs that roamed the property.

Keen to see town, we made our way out to look around and find somewhere to have lunch. Wondering lazily around the mostly deserted streets, we found the channel (river) and walked up to a little bridge over the busy waterway, to eat at the View Point restaurant that overlooked the small stream. Upstairs, the restaurant was cool and empty apart from a couple of backpackers. From our vantage point, we could see lines and lines of narrow boats, many carrying fresh produce, others stacked with wooden crates, ready for passenger seats. The water level was low, far below the stable land level that rose above the murky river. These slim vessels glided up and down the passage below our viewpoint with a steady ‘chuga-chuga’ of two-stroke motors grinding their way through the day.

We relaxed, watching the local scene outside. In no hurry, we ordered some cool drinks first, then lunch. This was where I first had Shan tofu, and instantly loved it. Instead of soy beans, it is made from chick peas. It was served with a typical Myanmar style, tomato curry-like sauce in a clay put. Delicious! J had a meat curry of some sort that I don’t think he enjoyed as much as I enjoyed mine.

After our leisurely lunch, we wondered through the streets, orienting ourselves and seeing the small town. Before heading back to Princess garden, we had another cold drink at a sidewalk stand on the main corner of the town. Sitting amongst locals, we watched the comings and goings of the townsfolk, while sipping iced coffee and tea. I think the locals were bemused that us two would sit at the simple, milk-crate like tables. A few Mingalabars and smiles started a little conversation in very broken English, sharing comments about the heat, lack of rain, and happiness of not being in the burning sun. Certainly, by the time we returned to the hotel, we were ready to jump in the pool and cool off. The afternoon drifted by, floating in the cool water and lounging in the shade of the bungalow’s veranda.

As the sun grew low on the horizon, we ventured back out to the town to find a cold beer and dinner. As we approached one of the large roads, we heard a commotion, with much banging of drums and crashing of cymbals. Locals lined the streets. A few hundred metres up the road, we could see some sort of procession coming towards us. Groups of men were dancing, some with bongo-like drums, others with large gongs hung from bamboo posts carried in pairs, as well as cymbals and bamboo clapper-like noisemakers, making an absolute racket.

A large parade was underway, with numerous groups of dancing men, many of whom were drunk – really, really very drunk as in rolling around drunk, swaying their way down the road. Other groups carried hand-made ‘trees’ and other images decorated with bank notes that were agitated and jiggled around in a dance like motion. Decorated cars and tractors displaying garlands of flowers and shrines interspaced the groups, along with lines of women and girls, dressed in their finest clothes, bearing offerings of fruit and flowers.

Every now and then, the groups stopped to sing a song, swigging back mouthfuls of some sort of home-made alcohol. Boys danced with their fathers, and each other, with mock fights entertaining the onlookers. They leaped in the air, jumped around, staggered, sang and danced some more as the parade snaked through the streets. I absolutely loved it. Bopping along to the beat of the passing bands, I clapped and got into it with some of the locals around me, snapping shots with my ‘little’ camera as the sun sank behind the buildings. It was all over in less than half an hour, with the procession moving on to other streets before ending at the local temple.

Still buzzing from the experience, J and I made our way to the main street to find a place to eat. We ended up choosing Star Flower, where there were a few other tourists. Selecting a table close to the road, we enjoyed a few cold beers before dinner. Ordering pizza, one of the few western dishes we’d had throughout our travels in Myanmar, I knew we’d made the wrong choice after seeing some other tables served uninspiring blobs of melted cheese dotted with toppings. It was almost an hour before we received ours. I didn’t really mind the wait, as we had more time to enjoy the town vibe. But it was quite ordinary, particularly after our wonderful lunch. Never mind.

Back at the hotel, we asked about the parade we’d seen. The owner told us it was ‘Kason” festival. Kason means the month of May, but the festival is to celebrate ‘Buddha Day’, or Vesak day, the full moon day of May when Buddhists celebrate the birth, enlightenment and death of Lord Buddha. Myanmar people celebrate by watering Bodhi trees at temples and pagodas throughout the country. The act of pouring water is significant in more than one way. First, it is an expression of respect to the Buddha, who attained enlightenment under a Bodhi tree. Also, in Myanmar, May is the hottest and driest month. As the month grows on, the land becomes dry and water is scarce, with rivers and lakes at their driest. Watering the trees ensures they don’t die of dehydration. The actual watering of the trees at temples is accompanied by much ceremony with chanting and religious rites. But what we witnessed was very festive and party like, a real celebration with an air of joy. The hotel proprietor also told us that there are 4 nights of festivities, with the following night expected to be bigger.

We finished the evening sitting on the veranda of the little bungalow with a cold drink, listening to sounds of music and partying from the town. Once quiet, an orchestra of frogs took over the night song. Compared to the rest of the country, the evening became cool, comfortable, on the verge of cold, making for a very restful and refreshing sleep. Tomorrow, we would see the lake, that famous Inle Lake, one of the sights I was most looking forward to of our trip.

- K

Myanmar Part 9 (c) - Mandalay Day 3

After more than a year, and almost two years since our trip, I pick up our story on our third day in Mandalay. Time may have passed since our visit, but the memories are as fresh as if it was only yesterday that we walked the dusty footpaths of this ancient land. In fact, I’m starting thoughts and planning for a trip back to explore further, as well as see how much has changed. I’m sure it will be quite different now.

So, let’s see now, after our failed attempt to see Mandalay Palace on our first day, we armed ourselves with US dollars to pay the ‘Mandalay Archaeological Zone’ ticket, met Naung Naung out the front of the hotel, and headed to see the Mandalay sights. We started at the famous palace. On entry, a number of informational boards were set up containing details about the thrones and royal regalia. J and browsed the boards before heading inside the huge complex. Sure it was all new and rebuilt after it was bombed out of existence during the war, but that did not detract from its sheer scale and imposingness. Imagine being a visiting dignitary in the 1700s, entering through the grand gates and being faced with these golden spires and ornate thrones set in this massive compound. Very impressive. Now empty, the darken rooms only hinted of the past luxury and opulence that they once held.

Passing in and out a number of pavilions, we read about how one was for the Queen, or for the family, or for close advisors, or servants. Without many details to distinguish between them they sort of blended all together. Pity there couldn’t be more furniture, decorations and artefacts to display a more accurate picture of what they would have looked like in their heyday. At the far end, the last pavilion held some stunning pieces of clothing and royal ornaments in a mini museum, which I pored over, fascinated. Referencing my not great memories from the book I had read (Glass Palace), I tried to imagine them in real, day-to-day use of the royal household.

Dashing between shadows, we made our way under the eaves of the numerous buildings to the tower near the entrance. The day was already boiling hot and the back of my tee-shirt was already wet from perspiration. Rushing to the shade, we didn’t stop at the lovely looking pool or bathing house beside the tower. Unlike the rest of the buildings, the white-washed walls looked old and may have been the original structures. Bright under the stark sunlight, the white walls and arched pergolas stood out against the other red buildings.

Snaking around the perimeter of the tower, a hundred steps lead to the top that commanded a grand view over the entire palace compound and beyond to Mandalay Hill. From here, the total area of the palace grounds became evident. A green carpet of tree tops stretched far into the distance encircling the palace buildings, a stark contrast to the dusty, dry streets beyond the palace walls. Under the shade at the top, the slight breeze brought cooling relief.

Returning to the relative comfort of the car, we enjoyed the air-conditioning as we headed back to Shwe Nandaw Kyaung, the Golden Palace monastery. It is said to be the one of the only buildings left standing after the destruction that reined upon Mandalay during WWII. History says that it was built from wood relocated from the palace complex at Amarpura. King Thibaw had the building where King Mindon died torn down and built this monastery from its remains, dedicating it to the Buddhist order in 1883. 

Inside, there were beautiful and intricate carvings of the Jakata tales, stories from the Buddha’s previous lives. Every wall, door and panel held mythical animals and dancing figures.

Unlike many Buddhist temples, there was not a huge alter room, but one chamber did contain a modest shrine with gold-gilded posts and Buddha statue. A smaller, pale Buddha of alabaster on simple wood pedestal sat centre place in the adjacent room. Similar to Shwe In Bin Kyaung teak monastery we visited the previous day, this was truly a treasure of Mandalay, and Myanmar, and I only hope efforts are put in place to preserve the superb carvings.

Just a few hundred metres away was Maha Atulawaiyan (Atumashi) Kyaungdawgyi (monastery). It is the largest religious building built during the time of King Mindon, completed in 1877. In 1890, it was used as a British military barrack and mysteriously burned down. Much of the structure survived and it was re-built and re-opened in 1996. 

Its interior was almost boring, pedestrian in comparison to the ornate decorations we had seen. But its exterior was unusual with white balustrades and ornate archways with elaborate carvings including peacocks. We had a look around but didn’t stay long.

It was still late morning. Naung Naung asked if wanted to see some more, suggesting another teak monastery that he knew but wasn’t as famous as Shwe Nandaw. We drove to the area around base of Mandalay Hill along the same road that we took when we went to the summit. We pulled into a small driveway that from the outside looked like someone’s property. Inside, we found a well maintained garden and an impressive teak building. Not as ornate as the others, it was still very impressive with a seven-tiered central spire and carved detail around the eaves and balconies. Inside was very dark with little on display apart from a single marble Buddha statue on a small alter. The most bazaar thing was an old WWII jeep, missing its front fenders, sitting on the lawn in front of the building.

Unfortunately, I didn’t find a name or any details about this place. Some research I’ve done since the trip shows it (I think) as a replica of Bargaya monastery that’s in Inwa. J and I relaxed in the shade of the peaceful compound as an elderly monk watered the garden.

We returned to the hotel and had a late lunch. Zegyo market was a block or two up the road, and J knew I wanted to have a look around. By now, the temperature was over 45 degree Celsius, worse in the sun. Both J and I made use of our umbrellas to repel the sun’s burning sting, but the heat was amazing. The market itself wasn’t too interesting, with mostly local wares and apparel. At least we didn’t get hassled to buy anything, but I was hoping to find some local treasure.

Returning to the road, we saw a few shops on the other side selling jade and jewelery. Stepping in, I seriously thought J was going to melt. Somehow, it was hotter inside the store, in the shade, than out on the sun-baked road. Rivers of sweat poured down his face, back, arms and legs. The lovely shop assistants handed J some tissues, taking sympathy on his discomfort. We bought a little jade elephant for J’s mum at a very cheap price.

Concerned that J would dissolve into a puddle of sweat, we headed back to the hotel and jumped straight into the pool, after a litre or two of replenishing fluids. That’s where we stayed all afternoon, talking with a few other hotel guests about their travels and experiences. One lady made a poignant point; “Travel is not a vacation, it’s an experience.” I couldn’t agree more. For me, I can sit and read a book on the beach at home, or sleep in. But I can’t see the magnificent sights, meet people from all corners of the globe and sample local culture anywhere else.

For our last night in Mandalay, we wondered around the nearby streets, having dinner at another chapatti stand. The fresh baked flatbread was filled with fragrant curry potatoes and served with chutneys which were delicious. There were more people out and about this night with more shops and stands open selling their wares. Too tired to walk much, we headed back to enjoy a cool beer before re-packing in preparation for our flight to Heho and onward to Inle Lake.

Reflecting on our past few days in Mandalay, I was so happy we chose to come despite reading forum posts and travel articles saying that it was an uninteresting, dirty city. So, the main town wasn’t pretty, but the sights and experiences were well worth it. If (when) I return to Myanmar, I will definitely return to Mandalay.

-K