He asked us to come back in 30 minutes as he had to call his brother to
bring the car from their village. Back at the hotel, we asked the staff about
the weather, as cyclone Mahasen was menacing off the coast and due to make
landfall. Already, the sky was heavy with cloud and it was a little windy.
However, they also said that it didn’t look like it would come too close to
Bagan. Despite that, many locals were taking shelter.
Right on time, we arrived back at the shop as a new silver Toyota sedan
was pulling up. Naing Naing, our driver and shop keeper, leapt out to open the
rear doors for us to get in. That new car smell hit us. It was abundantly
obvious that Naing Naing was proud of his car, and maybe just a tad
overprotective. The seats were covered in a hard plastic sleeve, like those
horrible sofa settings from the 1960s. Driving along, he barely hit 40km/h on
the asphalt road, and on the dirt tracks, he crawled at what seemed to be
almost slower than walking pace.
Since we had told him we had seen old Bagan and the area not far from it
to the south-east, he suggested going towards the north to Nyaung-U, starting
at Shwezigon Pagoda. It’s a huge gold zedi and one of very few made almost wholly
of stone. There’s a legend that the people who built it stood in a seven mile
long row stretching to the nearby quarry to relay the stone bricks to the site.
Many pavilions contain various precious objects and shrines which we explored
slowly. On the eastern side of the great stupda, there’s a 15cm indent full of
water. It was made to allow royalty to view the hti on the top of the gold structure
in the reflection of the puddle, so they didn’t have to tip their heads back to
look so far up at it, risking their crowns to topple off their heads.
Rattled, I found J, who had wondered off. He was shocked to hear what
happened. Then the women returned inside waiting for another victim. Determined
not to let this discourage me, we walked off to explore the temple further.
However, we were met by our driver who was in a bit of a panic. “Sorry, but
your hotel has a fire. We need to go back”. A what?!?! Fire? Holy moly. We had
left my mobile phone recharging in the room when we left. Don’t tell me it had
shorted and started the fire. The plug had looked a bit loose…
Hurrying back to car, we headed back where we found the area swarming
with motorbikes and cars with most of the town’s people watching on. Smoke rose
above the buildings with an acrid smell filling the air. Hotel staff met us as
we pulled up and ushered us inside. “Fire is out. No worry. Everything is OK”,
she explained, struggling to hold back tears. Walking past the swimming pool
where staff were mopping up, we returned to our room that was completely
unaffected. The fire had occurred in some rooms that were in a different wing
of the hotel that were undergoing renovations. Apparently, a drill or electric saw
had set off the fire. People had come from everywhere to put it out using the
pool water to fill buckets and hoses to dowse the flames. From what we saw, it
must have been intense, with the roof completely burnt, windows blown out and
smoke damage visible on all the walls inside and out.
At reception, we asked if we could help, but we were told that it was
all OK and to enjoy our day while they cleaned up. “By tonight, it will all be
fixed”, she said. Surprisingly, when we returned later that evening, new glass
had been fitted to the windows, and the roof was already being repaired. No-one
had been injured. I was glad that though it was a potential disaster, the care
and skills of the staff had made sure no-one was affected.
Resuming our day’s sightseeing, next was the impressive temple Htilo
Minlo, which is on the road between Nyaung U and Old Bagan. Before we got out
of the car, Naing Naing gave us a brief run down of the temple’s history. Apparently
the temple’s name comes from a legend when the local king of the time was
trying to decide which of his sons would succeed him. So he had his sons stand
in a circle and stood a white umbrella on it’s end in the centre. He then let
the umbrella fall. The son standing in the direction that the umbrella fell
become the next king. This temple sits on the spot where the umbrella fell, and
the name means, “the king favoured by the white umbrella”.
With the clouds now building, we asked Naing Naing whether he had any
updates on the cyclone. He said it was far away, but it would probably rain
soon. Confirming what we had heard earlier, many locals had stayed home and
took cover, just in case.
Not to worry, the set of next temples were close by. In fact, this next
area was one of my favourites. Being alone (apart from our car and a few
locals) in that ancient landscape littered with thousands of red bricks from
temples and walls long fallen was simply inspiring. Spires of near-by temples
rose above the sparse trees and dust adding scale to the view. We poked around
a few of the ruins and temples, many without name, just numbers.
Many pictures of Buddhas are also depicted as well as scenes from the
life of Gotama Buddha, the historical Buddha. Interestingly, there are also
images of Bodhisattvas (beings that dedicate their lives, and all future lives,
to benefit all sentient beings until they achieve enlightenment before the
Bodhisattva seeks their own liberation) attributed to Mahayana Buddhism, and not
usually seen in Theravada Buddhism which prevails in Myanmar. Apparently, a
separate sect of monks and priests lived in the area, explaining the curious
pictures. Unfortunately, we could not take any pictures inside the small temple.
Arriving in New Bagan well past 2pm, the town seemed deserted under grey
and gloomy skies. Our driver chose ‘The Green Elephant’ for lunch, where we
were the only patrons. Thai curries and fragrant rice provided a satisfying
lunch, though a little over seasoned and under spicy, clearly tamed down for
tourists. But the beer was cool and refreshing. Even though the weather had
turned, the temperature was still in the mid 30s with 100% humidity!
To finish our day, Naing Naing chose Manuha temple, where 3 enormous
seated Buddha statues are housed. The tiled terrace leading to the temple was
very slippery, now bathed in a few millimetres of rain. Three maroon clad monks
were making their prostrations as we entered. Seeing us, they turned around, one
said something to the others to which they giggled, and we were quickly the
subject of their photos, taken on their smart phones. It was only fair as I
took their photos too.
Back in Old Bagan, we bid a very fond farewell to Naing Naing, agreeing
to have him drive us to the airport the next morning, before we slid out of
those plastic-coated seats. The rain was clearing, though the clouds still stood
heavy in the sky. It was great to rinse the sweat and dust of our faces in the
cool air-conditioning of our room. However, I had itchy feet, wanting to
stretch after being in the back of a car for a large part of the day.
A crumbly road lead off further westward to Bu Paya, a barrel shaped
stupa set on the banks of the Irrawaddy. It is said to be the earliest Buddhist
zedi built in Bagan, when the area was first
settled by the Pyu community. The golden figure standing there now is a
replica, as the original fell into the river during the great earthquake of
1975. Though not as remarkable as many of Bagan’s temples, with no murals or gold
Buddhas, it was a lovely place. With the sun sinking behind the remnants of the
distant storm, and the light turning a golden hue, J and I relaxed, enjoying
the view and late afternoon atmosphere.
Nearby, the small town had a few stalls and restaurants. Must be time
for a refreshing beer. We sat at a small table on the rear deck of one of the
cafes with a cold one in the afternoon sunshine. Outside, the village had
sprung into life with many motorbikes buzzing here and there. It was hard to
believe this sunny afternoon was the same day as the one earlier.
Further along the road, we stopped in to check out Atwin Zigon pagoda
and Myet Taw Pyay pagodas that sat side-by-side.
Overgrown with weeds in places, and falling down in others, they were
interesting structures to explore. The late sun had brought a return to the
stinging heat, so the shady grounds of the deserted pagodas were cool and
relaxing.
On the way back to the hotel, our last stop was to the graceful Gawdaw
Palin temple. It is said it was built as a penance for a sin committed by the
king that built it. Most of the walls had been whitewashed, which was a great shame
as the few remaining murals were stunning. Gold Buddhas faced the four
directions and many corridors ringed the main hall. Many hidden corridors were
found after the earthquake, but they were gated off, out of bounds, as were the
staircases leading to the upper levels. Pity, it would have been a wonderful
view from up there, with the river close by.
Quickly refreshing ourselves, we hurried to the Ananda temple to meet
Aye Aye, the lady we had met yesterday, who offered to have dinner with her.
Arriving bang on time, the stalls were shut up, and the area deserted. We
wondered up the path near by, looking for her. The whole temple area was very
quite with very few locals anywhere. I guess people had stayed away from the
storm warning earlier in the day. Not to worry, J and I headed back towards the
hotel for a meal at the Sarabha II restaurant, with beer and pizza (I know –
something too touristy), after a beautiful day. I wished we had more time in
Bagan, as tomorrow we were on an early flight to Mandalay. Bagan is a true
treasure, and I have to return one day soon.
- K
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